Investigating the condition is essential to estimate the real value of the watch you want to buy. However, intentionally or not, sellers may not always disclose the full details regarding the condition of a watch, whether it runs too fast or has been dropped one too many times.
To avoid a costly service only weeks after purchase, here are some recommendations for inspecting the condition of a watch before buying it:
Check the case and crystal: Inspect the watch case for any scratches, dents, or signs of damage. Check the crystal for scratches or cracks, and ensure it is securely fastened to the case.
Verify the authenticity: Ensure the watch is authentic and has not been altered or modified. Franken watches are, unfortunately, way too common, especially among vintage watches. Check the serial numbers and other identifying marks to match the manufacturer's records.
Examine the dial: Check the dial for any signs of damage or discolouration, often indicative of water damage. Look closely at the hour markers, hands, and subdials to ensure they are in good condition and aligned properly.
Test the movement: Wind the watch and test the movement to ensure it is running smoothly and accurately. Listen for any unusual sounds or ticking, which could indicate a problem with the movement.
Check the strap or bracelet: Examine the strap or bracelet for any signs of wear or damage, including scratches, cracks, or fraying. Ensure the clasp or buckle is secure and functioning properly. While a good leather strap is not hard to find, a loose and stretched bracelet can be very costly to restore.
Consider the watch's age: Older watches may have signs of wear or patina, which can add to their character and charm. However, be wary of watches that show significant wear or damage, as it will affect their value and reliability.
Seek professional advice: If you are unsure about the condition of a watch, seek the advice of a professional watchmaker or appraiser. Usually, they can provide a more detailed assessment of the watch's condition for a reasonable fee and help you make an informed decision.
Please note, buying vintage watches will always incur a certain degree of risk. Learning how to inspect the condition of a watch will allow you to mitigate that risk, not eliminate it. Thus it can be a good idea to plan to pay for service when purchasing a used watch.
Now for the weekly recommendations, two amazing platinum watches, because every great collection should include a watch in the most precious of precious metals. Both watches are being sold at the upcoming Important Timepieces live auction at Bukowskis, Sweden, on the 26th of April. If you are not in Stockholm, Sweden, you can put an absentee bid online and during the auction day via a live stream.
The best value proposition
This rare 36mm automatic platinum Swatch Trésor Magique is a real bargain. It delivers the best value of all platinum watches. To understand the value of this watch, you must see how shiny platinum is in real life. It is one of the only platinum watches you can put on a $20 rubber strap, wear casually or dressed, and shower or play golf with. Swatch’s service costs are unbeatable.
This particular example comes with its display box, straps and original early 90ies purchase receipt. You cannot get more “full set” than this, and knowing how under the radar these watches are, it is likely to go at a very good price. I
Buy a Trésor Magique now before it’s too late…
The real treasure
Undoubtedly more exceptional, if you are on the hunt for a real treasure, consider this fantastic 2008 Patek Philippe Chronometro Gondolo in platinum. Launched in 2007, this reference has all the hallmarks of high horology, a superb builloché silver dial, platinum case, and a beautifully finished shaped movement cal. 25-21 REC, visible through the transparent case back... The Gondolo, much like the Swatch cited above, is a model line that doesn’t have much traction yet, and thus this particular watch is likely to go for a good price at auction.
If you are looking for a special Patek, this one could be the crown jewel of your collection.
Best regards,
T.W.B.